Phil Vettel reviews Good Fortune

Restaurant Reviews
This is an archived article and the information in the article may be outdated. Please look at the time stamp on the story to see when it was last updated.

Good Fortune sounds like the name of Chinese restaurant, but in fact it’s a contemporary American spot that opened five months ago in Logan Square.

The split-level space is softly lit and sultry, highlighted by a black-and-blue color scheme, natural wood tables and scalloped fabric banquettes . The dramatically lit bar is especially attractive.

Chef Charles Welch last seen at the very good but short-lived Honey’s, cooks with Mediterranean influence and a love of vegetables. Case in point is his plate of marinated beets, with fennel and orange and a pine nut crumble. Halloumi, a Middle Eastern cheese, is the centerpiece of a dish that includes roasted figs, pickled grapes and sunflower seeds.

Pastas are especially good. Rabbit pansotti with braised rabbit, parsnips and sunchoke chips get luxury touches from foie-gras butter and shaved truffle; while rigatoni pasta, stained with black garlic, is tossed with smoked mushrooms, rutabaga and chile flakes. It’s such a sturdy dish, I bet most diners won’t realize it’s vegetarian.

Among the main courses, I’d direct you to the chicken, rolled and deep-fried to a beautiful crisp, served with apple dumplings and roasted carrots; and the excellent pork collar, under a blanket of shishito peppers and marble potatoes.

The dessert list is thoughtful, offering interesting twists by way of a poached-pear pie and a gluten-free brownie, but my favorite is the parsnip cake, a slender rectangle topped with celery root and white chocolate puree, alongside caramelized-honey ice cream and miso-ginger caramel; this is one of the best dishes I ate all year.

There’s a very good wine list and cocktail program, and my favorite touch is this little sip – a $3 drink named, appropriately, the Lemon Tiny. Sometimes, a mini-cocktail is all I want to start a meal, and this is just a smart and thoughtful option.

I give Good Fortune, 2518 North California Avenue, three stars. Good Fortune offers so many things I like in a restaurant, it’s like the owners have been reading my diary.

Popular

Latest News

More News