Lunchbreak: Oven Charred Tomato Stuffed-Peppers and Ricotta Spoonable from Dorie Greenspan’s new cookbook

Dorie Greenspan author of Everyday Dorie

http://doriegreenspan.com/

Event:

Tonight - November 2

6 -7:30 p.m. talk & book signing

Spice House event

1512 N Wells St, Chicago, IL 60610

http://www.thespicehouse.com

Recipes:

OVEN-CHARRED TOMATO-STUFFED PEPPERS

Makes 6 servings

Every time I make this dish, and I make it lots, I’m surprised by it — surprised by how much I enjoy the process of making it, of stuffing halved peppers with a little bread-crumb mix, some herbs and as many small tomatoes as I can fit into them; surprised by how beautiful the dish is as I’m assembling it and again after it’s softened and charred in the oven; and surprised by how all kinds of people love it.

The first layer of bread-crumb stuffing packs bright flavors: anchovies, lemons, herbs and seasonings. The top layer’s got the sweetness and acidity of the tomatoes. Be generous with the herbs — before you put the peppers in their baking pan, slick it with olive oil and shower it with a mix of herbs and slices of garlic. I like to have thyme in the bouquet, rosemary too, but parsley, basil and mint are all good players here as well. You may or may not have oil left over for dunking or remoistening the peppers, but that’s not the point — this oil-and-herb landscape seasons the bottoms of the peppers and adds another layer of aromatics to the dish.

Since the recipe multiplies easily and endlessly, and because it is good at any temperature, but best, I think, at room temperature, mark it as a party dish.

About 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove (or more, if you’d like), germ removed (see page 320) and very thinly sliced

About 8 sprigs fresh thyme, rosemary, mint and/or parsley

6 fresh basil leaves, torn or chopped

Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper

5 tablespoons unseasoned bread crumbs

8 oil-packed anchovies, minced

1 small lemon

Pinch of piment d’Espelette (see page 334) or cayenne pepper

3 large red and/or yellow boxy bell peppers

1 pint cherry tomatoes (25 to 30), halved

 For serving (optional)

Extra-virgin olive oil

Ricotta or Ricotta Spoonable (page 22)

Snipped fresh chives or finely chopped other fresh herbs

WORKING AHEAD: You can prep the peppers a few hours ahead and keep them covered in the refrigerator; let them sit at room temperature while you preheat the oven. You can also roast them a few hours ahead and keep them covered at room temperature.

  1. Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 425 degrees F. Put a deep-dish 9½-inch pie pan (or similar-size baking dish) on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silicone baking mat. Spread a tablespoon or two of the oil over the bottom and sides of the pan, then scatter over the garlic slices, half of the herb sprigs and half of the basil and season with salt and pepper.
  2. Stir the bread crumbs and anchovies together in a small bowl. Grate the zest of the lemon over and squeeze in the juice from half of the lemon (about 1 tablespoon; precision isn’t important here). Cut 6 thin slices from the other half of the lemon, then cut the slices in half; set aside. (If any lemon remains, squeeze the juice from it over the bread crumbs.) Stir in 1 tablespoon oil and season the crumbs with the piment d’Espelette or cayenne. Taste to see if you want some salt (anchovies are salty, so the seasoning might be just fine).
  3. If you’d like (or need room in the pan), trim the peppers’ stems. Slice the peppers in half the long way and remove the ribs and seeds. Spoon an equal amount of the bread-crumb mixture into each pepper, scatter the remaining basil over and top each one with 2 lemon slices. Divide the tomatoes among the peppers, placing them as close together as you can, and season with salt and pepper. (I put the tomatoes in the peppers cut side down because I think they look prettier that way, but there is no set rule here.)
  4. Transfer the peppers to the pie pan, crowding them together and cajoling them so that they all fit. One or two might pop up, or their bottoms might not fully touch the base of the pan, but in the end they will be fine. Drizzle over enough of the remaining oil to lightly moisten the tomatoes and then strew over the remaining herb sprigs. (The peppers can be prepared a few hours ahead to this point and refrigerated, covered; let them stand at room temperature while the oven preheats.)
  5. Bake the peppers for about 1 hour (check at the 45-minute mark), until they’re as soft as you’d like them to be — poke the side of one with the tip of a paring knife to judge. The juices and oil should be bubbling and the peppers charred here and there. Remove and discard the herbs from the top of the peppers.
  6. You can serve the peppers straight from the oven, warm or at room temperature. If you’d like, drizzle them with a bit more oil, top them with a little ricotta (adding a dollop of ricotta is particularly nice if you’re serving the dish warm as a starter) and sprinkle with chives or other herbs.

STORING: I think the peppers are best the day they’re made, but if you have leftovers, refrigerate them — they’ll be soft but still tasty a day later.

Note on p. 334 on Piment d’Espelette:

PIMENT D’ESPELETTE: Espelette is a village in the Basque region of France famous for its red chile peppers — after harvest, almost every house in the area hangs peppers out to dry in the sun. Once dried, the peppers are finely ground. Cayenne is a good substitute.

 RICOTTA SPOONABLE

Makes about 2 cups

Take a peek in my fridge, and you’ll find the usual staples—milk, butter, eggs and yogurt, and my favorite plus-one: “ricotta spoonable.” I started making it years ago and I’ve probably never made it the same way twice. It’s a mix of ricotta, lots of chopped herbs, freshly grated lemon zest, olive oil and plenty of salt and pepper. It’s simple but special.

I prepare this year-round, changing the herbs according to what I have at hand, but I make it most often in summer, when I’m apt to fill the table with small plates of good stuff, things that don’t need to be eaten in any order and that lend themselves to mixing and matching. Put the spoonable into the mix, and it will match with beet salad (page 88), frittata (page 27), onion galette (page 54), charred peppers (page 39) and so many other dishes.

A Word on the Ricotta: If there’s liquid in the container, it’s best to drain the cheese. Line a strainer with a double thickness of damp cheesecloth, place it over a bowl, spoon in the ricotta, pull the cheesecloth around the cheese and weight it with a plate or a can of something. Put it in the refrigerator and let it drain for at least 30 minutes, or up to 1 day.

Alternatively, you can make the spoonable, scrape it into a cheesecloth-lined strainer and refrigerate until needed. Do this, and when you turn out the ricotta, the cheesecloth’s mesh pattern will be visible — it’s pretty.

2 cups (492 grams) whole-milk ricotta, drained if there’s liquid (see headnote)

1 large lemon, or more to taste

3 tablespoons minced shallots, rinsed and patted dry

2 scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

About ½ teaspoon fleur de sel or ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

Freshly ground pepper

⅓ cup (13 grams) minced mixed fresh herbs, such as dill, parsley, tarragon, thyme, cilantro and/or basil

  1. Put the ricotta in a medium bowl. Finely grate the zest of the lemon over it, then halve and squeeze the lemon and blend in the juice. Stir in the shallots, scallions, olive oil, salt and a healthy pinch of pepper. Taste for salt and pepper, then stir in the herbs. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour before adjusting for salt, pepper and lemon juice and serving.

CHOICES: A dollop of this on a cracker or sliced baguette makes a good appetizer; more of it on dark bread with roasted tomatoes, charred lemons or sliced cucumbers makes a tartine; and a lot of it stirred into pasta makes a dinner.

STORING: The spoonable is best the day it is made, but you can keep it for up to 2 days tightly covered in the refrigerator. Stir well before using.

 

Recipes are excerpted from Everyday Dorie © 2018 by Dorie Greenspan. Photography © 2018 by Ellen Silverman. Reproduced by permission of Rux Martin Books/Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.

 

 

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