Lunchbreak: Pressure-canned brioche

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Chef Francisco Migoya

Modernist Cuisine

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Pressure-Canned Brioche
Makes 10 rolls

2/3 cup whole milk, cold
2 3/4 tsp instant dry yeast
3 cups bread flour
4 eggs, cold
1/3 cup sugar
1 3/4 tsp fine salt
1 cup butter, softened
cinnamon sugar, as needed

Combine the milk and yeast in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, and stir to dissolve the yeast. Add the flour and eggs; mix on low speed to a homogeneous mass, about 2 minutes. Turn up the speed to medium, and continue mixing until the dough reaches between low and medium gluten development, 5 to 7 minutes. Combine the sugar and salt. With the mixer still on medium speed, mix in one-third of the butter until fully incorporated. Mix in half of the sugar mixture until fully incorporated. Mix in another third of the butter until fully incorporated. Mix in the remaining sugar mixture until fully incorporated. Mix in the remaining butter until fully incorporated. Turn the mixer up to medium-high speed, and continue to mix until the dough reaches full gluten development, about 15 minutes, scraping the bowl occasionally. Perform the windowpane test to assess for full gluten development. Transfer the dough to a sheet pan lined with an oiled silicone mat, and cover the dough well with plastic wrap. Bulk ferment for 1 hour. Perform a fold, flatten the dough, and shape it into an even rectangle. Cover with plastic wrap or a plastic bag. Refrigerate the dough for approximately 2 hours, or until it is thoroughly chilled (you can refrigerate it for up to 24 hours before shaping). Meanwhile, sanitize 10 jars and lids, as indicated by the manufacturer, and let them air dry. Divide the dough into ten 3 1/2-ounce pieces. Shape each piece of dough into a ball and toss in cinnamon sugar. You’ll need to pressure-can the dough in batches, so keep the dough in the refrigerator while you work. Lightly oil the interior of the jars, being careful not to get any on the rim. Do not spray the lids with oil. Remove four pieces of dough from the refrigerator. Place one ball of dough directly into each of four jars, seam side down. Close the lids. Screw the lid on to the point that you cannot close it any tighter, and then unscrew the lid one-eighth of a turn. You want to screw the lid on just enough so that the jar is sealed, but no further. Proof the dough for 1–1 1/4 hours at room temperature (70 degrees F). Remove four more balls of dough from the refrigerator, place them in jars, seam side down, and close the lids. Place a trivet or small wire rack in the bottom of an electric pressure cooker. Place the jars with the
proofed dough on the trivet or wire rack. Fill the pressure cooker with enough water to reach just below the base of the jars (about one inch). Lock the lid of the pressure cooker. Set the pressure to the highest psi (12). Set the timer for 45 minutes; the time will start after the interior of the pressure cooker comes up to the correct pressure. Once the pressure cooker has depressurized, open the lid and remove the jars using a dry kitchen towel or jar tongs. Place the hot jars on a wire rack to cool down. Pressure-can the second batch of dough once it is proofed. Remove the remaining balls of dough from the refrigerator and repeat the proofing and pressure-canning process.

When held at room temperature, this canned bread’s shelf life is approximately 3 months