Midday Fix: Seared spring lamb loin

This is an archived article and the information in the article may be outdated. Please look at the time stamp on the story to see when it was last updated.

The Dining Room
900 N North Branch St

Seared spring lamb loin, wheat berry, black trumpets, goat cheese, ramp chimichurri

4 6 oz. portions of lamb loin, cut off from the saddle, trimmed of sinew
1 Tbs toasted whole cumin
1/2 tsp garam masala
1/2 tsp curry powder
1/4 tsp turmeric
1 1/2 cups canola-olive oil blend
1/2 cup sesame oil
1/2 cup crushed garlic (leave some for basting)
1 3” piece of ginger sliced
2 fresh thai chilies, sliced in half
1 handful of mint
2/3 cup whole wheat berries
3-5 cups water
1/2 onion
1 whole carrot, cut in half
1 celery piece, left whole cut in half
4 Tbs olive oil
2 oz. black trumpet mushrooms, washed and air dried
2 Tbs minced shallots
1 cup lamb jus*
1 oz. of fresh goat cheese
1 Tbs minced roasted garlic (1 head of garlic roasted in foil with oil in 350 until soft. Cut
in half, and squeezed out cloves)
4 Tbs butter
1/2 oz. Fresh parsley, chopped
2 oz green ramp leaves, reserve white bottoms
2 oz cilantro
2 oz. sliced scallions
1 oz. fresh mint
1 green thai chili
1 Tbs fish sauce
1/2 cup olive oil
2 limes, juiced
1/2 tsp. sugar

Warm canola-olive oil blend and sesame oil to 100 degrees and add crushed green garlic or
regular garlic, ginger slices, fresh chilies, and a handful of mint to infuse. Chill oil and
marinate lamb with the infusion and the whole cumin, garam masala, curry powder, and
turmeric. Marinate overnight. Soak wheatberries in water overnight if possible. Drain and bring 3 times the volume of the wheatberries to a boil with onion, carrot, celery, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, season with salt, then a turn down to a simmer, and cook for 60-90 minutes, or until tender. Keep an eye as to
not scorch the bottom. Drain the excess water, and let chill. Heat a medium sized saute pan with 2 Tbs olive oil and saute the black trumpet mushrooms when pan is hot. Add minced shallots a minute after, season with salt and pepper, and caramelize. Reserve. Make chimichurri by pureeing chopped fresh ramp leaves, cilantro, scallions, mint, fish sauce, olive oil, sugar, and lime juice. Check seasoning and adjust. Meanwhile, bring a large saute pan to medium high heat. Add 2 Tbs of oil. Season the marinated lamb loins with salt and pepper and sear on both sides to get a nice color. Baste with 2 Tbs butter, thyme, 1 sliced shallots and 3 crushed garlic, spooning the butter continuously over the meat, turning the meat. Depending on the size, this may need to finish in the oven to reach about 135 F, or medium rare. Allow to rest, covered to keep warm. In the pan the mushrooms cooked in, add 1 tbsp. olive oil and saute on medium high heat the
ramp bulbs. When you see golden color, add wheatberries, lamb jus, and minced roasted garlic. Bring to a simmer. Add sauteed mushrooms. Then, add 1 Tbs of butter, juice of 1 lemon, and stir to emulsify. Dot in the goat cheese and parsley. Plate the warm wheat berry mixture in the middle of the plates. Slice the lamb loin against the grain and shingle on top. Drizzle the ramp chimichurri around.

*Lamb Jus: Heat oven to 425. Roast 2 cups large diced onion, 1 cup large diced celery, 1 cup
large diced peeled carrots and lamb bones from saddle, and lamb scraps tossed with oil to coat
and 2 tbsp. soy before roasting until golden. Put into a large pot. Add 1 cup of of shiraz wine,
and bay leaf to reduce. After reduced, cover with water and simmer until fully extracted, about 4
hours. Pass through a fine meshed strainer, and then reduce in half.

Roasted tri-color carrots, cultured young coconut puree, nuoc cham-tapioca pearl
vinaigrette, puffed rice
Makes 4 servings


For roasted carrots:
3 baby yellow carrots, save tops
3 baby orange carrots, save tops
3 baby purple carrots, save tops
grapeseed oil 1/2 cup
salt to taste

For cultured young coconut puree:
meat of 2 young coconuts (save coconut water)
1/4 cup of mixed coconut milk
1/4 cup of coconut yogurt
1 tsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. lime juice
1/4 tsp. honey
2 Tbs peanut butter

For nuoc cham vinaigrette:
2 Tbs lime juice
2 Tbs fish sauce
2 Tbs c fresh coconut water
1/2 tsp. rice wine vinegar (or coconut vinegar)
1/2 tsp brown sugar
1/4 tsp minced garlic
2 Tbs tapioca pearls (cooked like pasta until al dente, then shocked in cold running

For candied chilies:
4 Tbs sugar
2 Tbs water
2 thai chilies thinly sliced

For cilantro oil:
2 bunches of cilantro, blanched in salted water and shocked in ice water, squeezed out
1/2 cup of cold grapeseed oil
3 per plate plucked petite mint leaves
3 per plate plucked petite thai basil leaves
2 tbsp. puffed jasmine rice
1/4 cup of rice
1/4 + 1 1/2 Tbs of water
1 cup grapeseed oil

Make a carrot top oil by washing tops, rough chopping them, then pureeing them. with cold grapeseed oil. Puree them until the mixture is smooth. Pour into a sauce. pan, and bring to a simmer. Keep simmering until the bubbles die down, stirring occasionally, and the color turns to a rich green color. Pour through a chinois with coffee filter and chill down.

Toss the scrubbed carrots, one color at a time, with the carrot top oil and season with salt. Roast in a 425 oven until tender but with a little bite. Cut into according sizes. Save carrot oil if need to rehydrate before serving.

To make the cultured coconut puree, the day before serving, puree the coconut meat, coconut milk, and coconut yogurt in the blender until completely smooth. Put into a plastic container or mason jars, and into a pan with warm water to ferment overnight at about 100 to 110 degrees. The next day, the puree should be tangy, like a coconut yogurt.

Puree the coconut yogurt with the fish sauce, lime juice, honey and peanut butter (needs to taste balanced). Put this mixture into piping bag.

For the Nuoc Cham Vinaigrette, combine all ingredients and put into a squeeze bottle. Cook the tapioca pearls like pasta (into pot of boiling salted water) stirring occasionally. It might take about 15 minutes to cook, just keep checking. Then shock with cold water and drain. When cool, toss with cilantro oil. This will have to be done 2-3x a week as the starches gum up. Keep separately. Make candied chilies by
bringing to simmer the water and sugar and allowing to combine to make a thick simple syrup. Blanch the thinly sliced candied chilies once in plain boiling water, then simmer in the simple syrup until candied. Keep separately.

To make cilantro oil, blanch the chopped cilantro in boiling water that is salted heavily. Drain, shock, and drain and squeeze out as much water as possible. Puree with cold grapeseed oil until you can feel that the sides of the blender are getting warm and until the puree is completely smooth. It should be an emerald green. Strain through a coffee filter, and chill down in a ice bath. Should stay brilliant green for 1 week.

To make the puffed jasmine rice, first cooked the jasmine rice as you would normally, all the way through. (Combine cold water, rice, and bring to a boil. Cover, then simmer until cooked through). On a silpat sprayed with pam spray, spread out the rice evenly. Dehydrate overnight at 150. Next day, puff in hot oil (450 deg) and spider out immediately after it puffs, and drain on paper towel lined tray. Salt.


2/3 yellow carrot, cut into 1/4” size
2/3 orange carrot, cut into 1/2” size
2/3 purple carrot, cut into 1/3” size
5 rings of thinly sliced raw fresh baby carrot
1 Tbs Nuoc cham vinaigrette
1 Tbs tapicoa pearls
3 sliced candied thai chilies
1/2 Tbs cilantro oil
5 piped dots of cultured coconut puree
5 petite thai basil
5 petite mint
5 pieces of puffed rice

Plate carrot pieces in organic spaced places on the plate. Pipe random dots of cultured coconut puree. Place fresh rings of baby carrots in and around dots of coconut puree. Also, plate fresh herbs and puffed rice in the same fashion. In a small bowl, toss nuoc cham vinaigrette, tapioca pearls, candied thai chilies, and cilantro oil gently with a spoon. Scatter this mixture around the plate.

Wilted spinach, spring radishes, poached hen egg, green garlic croutons, bacon-black vinegar vinaigrette

Serves 4

10 oz. baby spinach, washed and dried
6 oz of french icicle radishes, sliced 1/8”thin
1 Tbs finely sliced chinese chives
1 Tbs finely sliced parsley
1/2 Tbs finely sliced tarragon
4 farm fresh hen eggs
1 qt water
1 tsp rice wine vinegar
1 Tbs kosher salt
maldon salt and fresh cracked pepper

For green garlic croutes:
2 green garlic stalks, finely minced
1 oz. fresh cilantro
1 oz. minced scallion
1/4 cup olive oil
2 Tbs grated parmesan cheese
1/4 loaf of country sourdough bread, torn into 1/2” pieces
salt and pepper

For dressing:
4 pieces nueskes bacon, cut into 1/4” batons
3 shallots minced
1/2 green garlic stalk finely minced
1/4 cup of olive oil
1 Tbs madeira
2 Tbs chinese black vinegar, or substitute balsamic vinegar
1 Tbs red wine vinegar
2 Tbs lime juice
1 tsp. fish sauce
1 Tbs honey
1 minced thai chili
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. sugar
bacon fat drippings saved from rendered bacon

Make lardons of nueske bacon (slice 1/4” thick slices into 1/8” sticks). Render slowly. Drain, reserving lardons. Save bacon fat. Heat oil to medium heat, add minced shallots and slowly caramelize. Add 1/2 stalk of minced green garlic and caramelize for a few more minutes. Add Madeira, stir and allow to reduce until evaporated. Combine chinese black vinegar, red wine vinegar, lime juice, fish sauce, honey, thai chili, salt, and bacon fat drippings. Whisk until thorougly combined and reserve until ready to serve. Preheat oven to 350. Heat 1/4 cup of olive oil and sweat 2 stalks of minced green garlic until translucent. Cool mixture, and then puree in a food processor until completely smooth with 1 oz. fresh cilantro chopped, 1 oz minced scallion, grated parmesan. Toss torn bread with this mixture and a dash of salt and pepper. Transfer to a sheet pan, and bake until golden colored. Bring a medium sauce pot to a simmer with a teaspoon of rice wine vinegar and 1 Tbs of kosher salt. Make a vortex with a slotted spoon, then drop the eggs into the
water. Gently occasionally stir the eggs in a circular motion. When the whites are set and the yolk is barely set, pull out eggs with slotted spoon and drain onto a paper towel. Warm dressing in sauce pan until hot. In a bowl, toss baby spinach with shaved radishes, fresh herbs, croutons, and fresh cracked pepper. Drizzle hot dressing over greens, then gently toss to coat. Plate in a nice mound, and top with egg. Sprinkle
Maldon and Cracked Pepper over the poached egg, and more fresh herbs. Serve

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s