837 W. Fulton Market
Publican Quality Meats
825 W. Fulton Market, Chicago
To purchase a copy of the book:
noon - 2:00 p.m.
835 N. Michigan Avenue
Saturday, June 17
The Chopping Block
4747 N. Lincoln Avenue
Blue Ribbon Chocolate Ice Cream
Makes between 1 and 11/2 quarts ice cream
3 Tbs cocoa powder (2%)
1 1/2 tsp Kosher or sea salt
3 Tbs milk powder (2%)
3/4 cup sugar (15%)
1 3/4 cups cream (16%)
2 1/4 cups milk (45%)
1 1/4 cups glucose (5%)
Texture agent of your choice (see below)
Best texture Commercial stabilizer 3g (1 teaspoon) mixed with the sugar before it is added to the dairy.
Least icy Guar or xanthan gum 1g (1/4 teaspoon) whirled in a blender with the ice cream base after it is chilled in the ice bath.
Easiest to use Tapioca starch 5g (2 teaspoons) mixed with 20g (2 Tablespoons) of cold milk, whisked into the ice cream base after it is finished cooking.
Most accessible Cornstarch 10g (1 Tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon), mixed with 20g (2 Tablespoons) of cold milk, whisked into the simmering dairy, then cooked for 1 minute.
Melt the chocolates. Fill a medium pot with 2 inches of water, and place the pot over high heat until it comes to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Place the dark chocolate, milk chocolate, cocoa powder, and salt in a metal or glass bowl with a rim about 2 inches higher than the pot and nest it over the pot of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Melt the chocolates, stirring occasionally, until smooth. Remove the bowl from the pot, wipe the bottom dry of any condensation, and set aside in a warm place. Combine the milk powder and sugar. Mix the milk powder and sugar 1 in a small bowl. Boil the dairy. Place the cream, milk, and glucose in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat and cook, whisking occasionally to discourage the milk from scorching, until it comes to a full rolling boil. Add and cook the milk powder. Whisk the milk powder mixture into the pot. Reduce the heat to a low simmer and continue cooking for 2 minutes 4, whisking to prevent scorching. Combine the ice cream base and chocolate. Whisk one-third of the hot base into the bowl of melted chocolate. Add the remaining dairy in two more additions, whisking between each. (By adding the hot ice cream base to the chocolate gradually, you ensure there are no minuscule flecks of unmixed chocolate in the final ice cream, which feel grainy when frozen.) Chill. Fill a large bowl two-thirds of the way with a lot of ice and a little water. Nest the bowl of warm chocolate base into this ice bath, stirring occasionally until it cools down. Strain. When the ice cream base is cool to the touch (50°F or below), strain it through a fine-mesh sieve. (This step is optional, but will help ensure the smoothest ice cream possible.) Cure. Transfer the base to the refrigerator to cure for 4 hours, or preferably overnight. (This step is
also optional, but the texture will be much improved with it.) Churn. Place the base into the bowl of an ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. The ice cream is ready when it thickens into the texture of soft-serve ice cream and holds its shape, typically 20 to 30 minutes. Harden. To freeze your ice cream in the American hard-pack style, immediately transfer it to a container with an airtight lid. Press plastic wrap directly on the surface of the ice cream to prevent ice crystals from forming, cover, and store it in your freezer until it hardens completely, between 4 and 12 hours. Or, feel free to enjoy your ice cream immediately; the texture will be similar to soft-serve.
Peanut Butter Ribbon
Makes 1 1⁄4 CUPS
1 cup creamy peanut butter
1/4 cup coconut oil
1 tsp Kosher or sea salt
Melt the ingredients. Place the peanut butter, coconut oil, and salt in a medium heatproof bowl. Find a pot with a mouth a few inches smaller than the bowl, and fill it with 2 inches of water. Place the pot over high heat and cook until it comes to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Nestle the bowl of peanut butter over the pot of simmering water, and melt the peanut butter and coconut oil over this water bath; mix. Store the ribbon. Remove the bowl from the double boiler, and let it cool to room temperature. Store the peanut butter ribbon in an airtight container in your cupboard. Prepare the ribbon as an add-in. To use the peanut butter ribbon in your ice cream, heat it just enough that it is fluid but not hot. This should be about 60°F. Pour the fluid peanut butter ribbon over freshly churned ice cream, let it harden, then continue to layer ice cream and peanut butter ribbon.
One of my favorite store-bought ice creams is Häagen-Dazs’s Chocolate Peanut Butter Ice Cream. Inside are sheets of firm peanut butter that run through the ice cream like a seam of coal. It takes some pressure for the spoon to shatter the hard peanut butter, but the salty chunks dissolve in your mouth.
That melt-in-your-mouth, not-in-your-pint texture comes from coconut oil. Look for extra-virgin coconut oil, or expeller pressed, which has been deodorized and doesn’t taste like coconut. Or, you can add regular coconut oil and enjoy its natural flavor! If you can’t find coconut oil, substitute canola oil; you won’t get quite the same texture, but I’d hate for you to miss out on this amazing peanut butter ribbon just because of some coconut oil.
Use any nut butter you like for this recipe. As an added bonus, because of the coconut oil you can use this peanut butter ribbon like Magic Shell, pouring it over scoops of ice cream and watching it solidify.